At last: the sun’s come out and spring is here! As a chef, it’s not just the fact that the weather is getting warmer that brings a smile to my face – it’s the thought of all the new season produce which is now ready for us to enjoy.
Thoughts often turn to eating lamb at this time of year, but British new season lamb reared outdoors and suckling on their mother’s milk – who herself has enjoyed a diet of fresh grass – these animals have a uniquely sweet flavour and a tender texture, which needs careful cooking and subtle accompaniments to bring out its best.
Which is why the new season vegetables make such wonderful partners. Whereas strong herbs like rosemary and hardy winter veg like kale and red cabbage go so well with more mature animals, seasonality dictates that they would overpower the delicate flavour of new season lamb which is only up to [8 months old]. But spring vegetables such as asparagus, broad beans, fennel, trompette mushrooms, courgettes and tomatoes are just right, creating a dish which is light but still full of flavour. Ditto soft herbs like chervil, parsley, chives, tarragon or even dill.
Don’t be too afraid of it, however – for all its delicacy, new season lamb is still quite versatile. While it’s not the right meat for slow-cooked stews or minced up for burgers, it’s fantastic barbequed, where the caramelisation gives a nice balance to the sweetness of the meat. Simply marinade it in soft herbs, garlic and olive oil and serve with a raw or lightly steamed salad of spring veg with a lemon, black pepper and pecorino vinaigrette. Or try it [steamed] in a light broth with sheep’s milk dumplings and crunchy new season veg. If you’re really adventurous, “hay baking” is a classic way to cook it – packed in a roasting tin surrounded by hay – served simply with buttered Jersey Royals.
So let’s relish all our beautiful new spring produce as we enjoy the sunshine!
